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Quizzes > Science > Chemistry

Chemical Texture Services Quiz: Prove Your Milady Expertise!

Think you can ace pH scale cosmetology and perm techniques? Dive in!

Difficulty: Moderate
2-5mins
Learning OutcomesCheat Sheet
Paper art illustration of salon scissors perm rods ph scale icons, quiz title on golden yellow background

This Milady Chemical Texture Services quiz helps you practice core skills - pH scale basics, alkaline perm steps, and safe neutralizer timing - so you can spot gaps before an exam or a client service. If you want a quick refresher, skim this topic overview , then start.

What is the range of the pH scale used in cosmetology?
0 to 14
7 to 14
1 to 10
0 to 7
The pH scale in cosmetology spans from 0 (most acidic) to 14 (most alkaline), with 7 being neutral. It measures the acidity or alkalinity of hair and skin products, which influences cuticle behavior and service outcomes. Products with a proper pH maintain hair integrity and optimize chemical texture processes.
A solution with a pH greater than 7 is considered:
Osmotic
Neutral
Acidic
Alkaline
A pH above 7 indicates an alkaline solution, which opens the hair cuticle and softens the cortex for chemical services like perming and relaxing. Alkalinity is critical in reducing disulfide bonds during texture services. Proper control prevents over-expansion of the cuticle.
A solution with a pH less than 7 is considered:
Alkaline
Emulsive
Neutral
Acidic
Acidic solutions (pH below 7) cause the hair cuticle to contract, resulting in smoother, shinier hair and helping to rebalance the hair after an alkaline service. Acid-balanced perms use a mild acidic environment to set curls without external heat. Proper acid balance helps close the cuticle and reduce frizz.
What is the normal pH range of healthy hair and skin?
7.0 to 8.0
3.0 to 4.0
6.5 to 7.5
4.5 to 5.5
Healthy hair and skin have a slightly acidic pH between 4.5 and 5.5, which helps protect against bacteria and keeps the cuticle smooth. This acid mantle maintains moisture and elasticity. Deviations can lead to dryness or damage.
Disulfide bonds in the hair are formed between which amino acid?
Methionine
Lysine
Arginine
Cysteine
Disulfide bonds form when two cysteine amino acids in keratin link via their sulfur atoms. These strong chemical bonds are responsible for hair's strength and shape. Perms break and reform these bonds to create new textures.
Which type of bond in hair is broken by water and heat but reforms when dry?
Salt bond
Peptide bond
Disulfide bond
Hydrogen bond
Hydrogen bonds are weak side bonds in hair that break under water or heat and reform upon drying or cooling. They account for about one-third of hair's strength and temporary styling. Unlike disulfide bonds, they are not permanent.
Salt bonds in hair are most affected by:
Changes in pH
Reducing agents
High heat
Water only
Salt bonds form between unlike charges in side chains and are disrupted by changes in pH. When the pH shifts, these ionic bonds break, affecting hair shape until the pH normalizes. They are weaker than disulfide bonds but stronger than hydrogen bonds.
Peptide bonds in hair connect:
Keratin and melanin
Amino acids in the polypeptide chain
Cysteine residues
Hydrogen side chains
Peptide bonds link amino acids together in a continuous polypeptide chain, forming the primary structure of keratin. These strong covalent bonds provide the backbone for all other side bonds in hair. Chemical services do not break peptide bonds.
What is the primary function of a permanent wave solution?
Seal the cuticle
Reform salt bonds
Reduce disulfide bonds
Strengthen hydrogen bonds
Permanent wave solution reduces the disulfide bonds in the hair cortex, allowing it to be reshaped around a rod. The reduction step softens the hair so the new curl pattern can be set. Neutralization reforms these bonds in the new shape.
The neutralizer in a perm service primarily:
Removes cuticle scales
Breaks salt bonds
Re-oxidizes disulfide bonds
Hydrolyzes peptide bonds
Neutralizer (usually hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate) re-oxidizes and reforms the disulfide bonds in their new shape, fixing the curl pattern. This step stops the reduction process and stabilizes the new texture. Insufficient neutralization leads to weak curls.
What does "thio" in thio perm stand for?
Thiofumarate
Thioxanthate
Thioglycolate
Thioazoline
"Thio" refers to thioglycolate, the reducing agent in alkaline perms (usually ammonium thioglycolate). It breaks disulfide bonds, allowing hair to be reshaped. Acid perms use glycerol monothioglycolate instead.
When wrapping hair for a perm, what item protects the scalp and hairline?
Silicone serum
Protective cream
Cuticle sealant
Neutralizing shampoo
Protective cream (barrier cream) applied around the hairline and scalp prevents chemical overprocessing and irritation during perming and relaxing. It shields the skin and hairline from harsh chemicals. Always apply before solution.
Normal hair elasticity when wet should stretch to about:
10% of its original length
25% of its original length
100% of its original length
50% of its original length
Wet hair with healthy elasticity stretches about 50% of its length without breaking, indicating good moisture and strength. Less elasticity suggests damage or dryness. This test helps determine suitable chemical processing.
The porosity of hair refers to its ability to:
Reflect light
Conduct heat
Resist breakage
Absorb and retain moisture
Porosity measures how readily hair absorbs and retains moisture or chemicals. High porosity hair processes faster because the cuticle is raised, while low porosity hair resists product penetration. Testing porosity guides chemical service timing.
End papers are used during a perm service to:
Seal cuticle scales
Neutralize chemical solution
Control hair ends for even processing
Accelerate processing
End papers provide a paper barrier at the ends of the hair strand when wrapping on rods, ensuring uniform tension and curl formation. They prevent weak or fishhook ends. This promotes consistent results throughout the rod.
Which tool is used to physically wrap hair during a perm?
Scalp protector
Perm rod
Thermal iron
Neutralizer bottle
Perm rods are cylindrical tools around which hair is wound to set new texture during a perm service. Rod size determines curl diameter. Correct rod selection is crucial for the desired pattern.
Alkaline perms typically use which active ingredient?
Glyceryl monothioglycolate
Hydrogen peroxide
Ammonium bisulfite
Ammonium thioglycolate
Alkaline perms use ammonium thioglycolate as the reducing agent to break disulfide bonds at a higher pH, producing strong, firm curls quickly. Acid perms use glyceryl monothioglycolate instead. Knowing the active ingredient helps choose the correct perm type.
An exothermic perm produces heat through:
Natural body heat
A chemical reaction with an added activator
External heat from a dryer
Electricity in the curling rod
Exothermic perms generate heat when a mixing activator triggers an internal chemical reaction in the waving solution. This accelerates processing without external heat sources. Understanding this reaction ensures proper timing and curl development.
Heat-activated acid-balanced perms require:
Low processing temperature
Solar heat only
External heat from a hood dryer
High pH above 9
Heat-activated acid-balanced perms (endothermic) require external heat, such as a hood dryer, to lower processing time and open the cuticle in a mild acidic environment. No activator is mixed into the solution itself. Proper heating ensures even curls.
What is the typical pH range of an acid-balanced perm?
6.9 to 7.2
8.0 to 9.0
10.0 to 11.0
4.0 to 5.0
Acid-balanced perms have a pH close to neutral (6.9 - 7.2), minimizing cuticle damage and producing softer curls. They require external heat for activation. The lower pH compared to alkaline perms results in gentler processing.
Why must hair be rinsed thoroughly before applying neutralizer in a perm?
To close the cuticle completely
To remove all waving lotion and stop reduction
To speed up neutralization
To deposit conditioning oils
Thorough rinsing removes residual waving lotion and stops the reduction of disulfide bonds, preventing overprocessing when neutralizer is applied. Inadequate rinsing can weaken hair and cause breakage. Proper rinsing ensures even neutralization.
Overprocessed hair in a perm service is usually indicated by:
No change in wave pattern
Tight, dry curls
Excessive shine
Mushy or weak curl formation
Overprocessed hair will have fragile, mushy curls because the cortex has been overly reduced and damaged. This indicates the waving solution was left on too long or too strong. Proper timing prevents this issue.
Which pattern blends new curls into existing texture at the hairline?
Bricklay perm pattern
Rectangle pattern
Weave perm pattern
Spiral perm pattern
The bricklay perm pattern staggers rods like bricks, blending new curls into natural texture and reducing splitting at the hairline. This pattern creates a more natural distribution of curl. It's ideal for uneven lengths.
During a curl test, hair does not precipitate into S-shaped bands. This indicates:
Excess neutralizer
Insufficient processing time
Wrong rod size
Overprocessing
If hair doesn't form S-shaped bends, the perm solution hasn't broken enough disulfide bonds; more processing time is needed. Monitoring and testing during processing prevents under- or overprocessing. Always follow manufacturer's recommended timing.
Which wrap technique uses one end paper folded in half over the hair ends?
Spiral wrap
Double flat wrap
Bookend wrap
Single flat wrap
A bookend wrap uses one end paper folded in half like a book around the hair ends, ensuring smooth and even tension. It's ideal for short hair or tapered ends. It prevents fishhooks and uneven curl patterns.
Thio-neutralization forms disulfide bonds in the presence of:
Sodium hydroxide
Hydrogen peroxide
Ammonium thioglycolate
Hydrochloric acid
During neutralization, hydrogen peroxide oxidizes free thiol groups to reform disulfide bonds, setting the new curl pattern. Without adequate oxidizing agent, hair remains weak. This step is essential to finalize the perm.
Half-off-base placement in a perm wrap results in:
Flat, limp curls
Moderate volume and lift
No tension
Maximum tension
Half-off-base placement positions the rod halfway on its base section, producing moderate volume and a natural curl pattern with balanced tension. It's used when uniform body is desired without excessive lift at the scalp.
Why are ammonia-free perms still considered alkaline?
They rely on heat only
They use other alkaline agents like ethanolamine
They have natural pH of hair
Alkalinity isn't needed for perming
Ammonia-free perms replace ammonia with other alkaline agents (e.g., ethanolamine) to soften the cuticle and allow penetration. The pH remains above 7 to break disulfide bonds effectively. They provide gentler odor but still require alkalinity.
During an exothermic wave, the activator initiates:
Evaporation of water
Free radical polymerization
A self-heating oxidation-reduction reaction
Catalytic metal reaction
The activator in exothermic perms generates heat through an internal oxidation-reduction reaction, boosting reduction speed without external heat. The reaction produces thio radicals that break disulfide bonds efficiently. Proper mixing ratio is critical.
In acid-balanced perms, external heat lowers activation energy so that:
Disulfide bonds are reduced at a near-neutral pH
Peptide bonds break
Salt bonds reform
Cuticle scales lift without solution
External heat in acid-balanced perms provides energy to reduce disulfide bonds in a mild pH environment, preventing cuticle damage and offering greater control. No high alkalinity is required. This makes them gentler on the hair.
Endothermic perms require which of the following to process?
External heat source only
Room temperature only
Heat-generating activator
High-alkaline solution
Endothermic perms absorb heat from an external source (hood dryer) and do not generate heat internally. Their solutions are acid-balanced and require consistent temperature to process efficiently. Skipping external heat leads to weak curls.
Which perm type is recommended for fine, fragile hair?
Heat perm
Alkaline perm
Neutral body wave
Acid-balanced perm
Acid-balanced perms have a lower pH and use external heat, which is gentler on fine or fragile hair. They cause less cuticle lift and reduce damage risk while creating soft, natural curls. Fine hair benefits from mild processing.
Coarse, resistant hair often requires:
Cold water setting
Low-alkaline solution only
High-alkaline solution and longer processing time
Reduced heat application
Coarse, resistant hair has a tightly packed cuticle and low porosity, so it needs a higher-alkaline perm solution and longer processing time to open cuticles and reduce bonds. Under-processing yields weak curls.
Which chemical texture service uses polyquaterniums to minimize swelling?
Ammonium hydroxide color
Thio relaxers
Cold wave perms
Low-pH acid perms
Low-pH acid perms often include polyquaterniums to condition and reduce cuticle swelling during processing. These polymers help maintain hair integrity. They are used when minimal swelling is desired with acid-balanced solutions.
How does glyceryl monothioglycolate differ from ammonium thioglycolate?
It works faster at high pH
It is less alkaline and gentler on the hair
It creates firmer curls
It requires no neutralizer
Glyceryl monothioglycolate is used in acid-balanced perms and has a lower pH, making it gentler on the hair and minimizing cuticle damage. It requires external heat and neutralization like other perms. It produces softer curls compared to thio.
What happens if perm solution overlaps onto previously permed hair?
It can cause overprocessing and breakage
It strengthens old curls
It neutralizes previous perm
It has no effect
Overlapping perm solution on already permed hair can lead to overprocessing, weakening disulfide bonds, and causing breakage or uneven curl patterns. Always rinse and protect previously permed areas. Proper sectioning avoids this.
What is a limitation of heat-activated wave systems?
They need consistent external heat throughout processing
They use ammonia only
They are always more alkaline
They cannot process resistant hair
Heat-activated (endothermic) waves rely on a consistent external heat source; any interruption in temperature can compromise curl formation. They are gentler but require vigilant heat maintenance. Underheating leads to weak curls.
Why are gloves essential during perm and relaxer services?
To protect skin from chemical burns and irritation
To improve grip on rods
To cool the hands
To reduce static electricity
Perm and relaxer solutions are harsh chemicals that can irritate or burn the skin on contact. Wearing gloves protects the technician's hands and ensures safe application. Gloves also prevent cross-contamination.
A patch test is performed to:
Determine rod size
Measure hair porosity
Test elasticity
Detect allergic reactions to product ingredients
A patch test places a small amount of the chemical product on the skin to check for allergic reactions before full application. This prevents severe allergic responses during texture services. Always perform as directed by manufacturer.
Why should metallic salts be avoided in hair before a perm?
They can cause uneven curls and breakage
They act as a neutralizer
They strengthen the perm solution
They improve rod tension
Metallic salts (from previous henna or metallic dyes) can react with perm chemicals, resulting in uneven processing, discoloration, or hair breakage. Always perform a strand test to detect unwanted metal residues.
How is hair porosity commonly assessed in the salon?
Float test in water
Elasticity pull
Neutralization timing
Cuticle brushing
The float test, where a strand is placed in water to see if it sinks quickly (high porosity) or floats (low porosity), is a quick salon assessment. It helps determine processing time and product choice. Combine with elasticity tests for accuracy.
What is the mechanism behind buffered acid permutations?
Buffers seal the cuticle immediately
Buffer systems maintain pH so reduction occurs slowly and gently
Buffers act as heat generators
Buffers increase alkalinity to break bonds faster
Buffered acid perms use a buffer system to keep the pH stable within a narrow acidic range, allowing a slow, controlled reduction of disulfide bonds without harsh cuticle lifting. This provides gentler processing and more uniform curls. Understanding buffers prevents pH spikes.
How does critical micelle concentration (CMC) influence relaxer neutralization?
Below CMC, hair cuticles remain sealed
Above CMC, surfactants form micelles that solubilize oily residues for more effective neutralization
CMC is irrelevant in chemical texture
CMC relates only to hair dye penetration
Surfactants above their CMC form micelles that encapsulate and remove oily residues from relaxer products during neutralization, ensuring complete chemical removal and preventing scalp irritation. This improves product efficiency.
What effect does hydrolyzed keratin in a neutralizer have on hair?
Increases cuticle swelling
Stops neutralization entirely
Replenishes protein, reinforcing the cortex after reduction
Strips moisture out of the hair
Hydrolyzed keratin in neutralizers penetrates the cortex and binds to damaged sites, replenishing protein lost during reduction. This strengthens the hair shaft and improves elasticity. It acts as a conditioning agent during neutralization.
When selecting activation time for a perm, which factor is most critical?
Thermal iron temperature alone
Rod diameter, hair porosity, and solution pH
Only the length of the hair
Ambient room humidity only
Proper activation time depends on rod diameter (smaller rods process faster), hair porosity (higher porosity processes quicker), and solution pH (higher pH accelerates reduction). Balancing these factors ensures uniform curl formation without damage.
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Study Outcomes

  1. Understand the fundamentals of chemical texture services -

    Explain core concepts of chemical texture services Milady details, including perm, relaxer and curl reforming basics.

  2. Analyze the pH scale cosmetology effects on hair -

    Interpret how pH levels influence the hair's structure and why balancing acidity and alkalinity is vital for safe, effective treatments.

  3. Identify alkaline perms that use GMTG as the active ingredient -

    Recognize the role of glycerol monothioglycolate in alkaline perms and how it reshapes hair bonds to create long-lasting curls.

  4. Evaluate consequences of leaving the neutralizer on longer than recommended -

    Assess the risks of over-processing and potential hair damage when neutralizer timing exceeds Milady's recommended guidelines.

  5. Apply proper neutralizer timing protocols -

    Demonstrate correct timing techniques for neutralizing during perm services to ensure optimal hair health and curl formation.

  6. Integrate Milady Chapter 20 essentials into practical scenarios -

    Apply key principles from Milady Chapter 20 to design and execute safe, professional chemical texture service plans.

Cheat Sheet

  1. pH Scale and Hair Health -

    Reviewing the pH scale cosmetology fundamentals (0 - 14) is crucial: acidic (0 - 6) closes the hair cuticle while alkaline (8 - 14) opens it for chemical texture services milady. A handy mnemonic is "Acid Aids in Closing," and every 1 pH unit change is a tenfold difference in acidity or alkalinity, as noted in Milady Chapter 20. Balanced pH keeps hair shiny and reduces damage during perms or relaxers.

  2. Active Ingredient in Alkaline Perms -

    Alkaline perms use GMTG as the active ingredient - glyceryl monothioglycolate (C₃H₆O₃S) - which breaks disulfide bonds efficiently at higher pH levels. This formula increases curl formation in resistant hair by loosening the cuticle for deeper penetration, as specified in official cosmetology resources. Remember: "GMTG Gets Moisture Going!" to reinforce its name.

  3. Disulfide Bond Alterations -

    Chemical texture services milady center on breaking and reforming cystine disulfide bonds (R - S - S - R) in hair's keratin structure. The "Break, Bend, Reform" framework helps you memorize the process: first reduction, then shaping, and finally neutralization to re-establish bonds. Research from university trichology studies confirms this mechanism underpins both perming and relaxing services.

  4. Neutralization Timing -

    Leaving the neutralizer on longer than recommended can over-harden hair and strip essential moisture, leading to dryness and breakage if ignored. According to Milady Chapter 20 guidelines, the neutralizer must be rinsed and processed exactly within the specified 5 - 10 minutes to rebalance pH and lock in new bonds. Proper timing ensures soft, springy curls without sacrificing hair integrity.

  5. Importance of the Preliminary Strand Test -

    Always perform a strand test to tailor processing time and product choice for different hair porosities and textures as recommended in chemical texture services milady protocols. This quick check (10 - 15 minutes) verifies curl formation and prevents overprocessing, saving time and protecting hair health. It's an easy step to ensure consistent, salon-quality results every time.

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